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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.